Summer's over...

I worked for Alexander Mcqueen this summer and I think it has inspired me to look at the darker side of life for my final collection. I've been watching A LOT of films, mostly horror films; Dracula, Audition, The Ring included.

The costumes in Bram Stoker's Dracula are spectacularly grandiose and gothic, designed by the talented costume designer, Eiko Ishioka. The costumes are not necessarily similar to what I want to design but I feel that the mood of the film and the costumes, really capture the essence of what I want to create.

Diffusion line research pt 2.

I cannot seem to find anything about Galliano's diffusion line, other than the latest menswear that was released in January but there aren't any price points available. So I have decided to look at other designers I like such as Sonia Rykiel. Sonia Rykiel is a French knit wear designer who recently collaborated with H&M. The line was launched worldwide on February 20th 2010 and was a success much like H&M's other design collaborations. Price points range from £5.99 to £60.00 for an individual item.

Looks from Resort 2010

Spring 2009

Accessories

Dita handbag,  £3, 000

Sonia Rykiel pour H&M

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel

Leopard print cotton/silk mix dress. £ 262.00

Gold trimmed jacket. 100% Linen. £370.00

Silk/cashmere dress. £312.00

So from reviewing the research I have decided to create a diffusion line for H&M including clothes, shoes and bags. The prices will range from £25.00 to £150.00 for an individual item.

1st dress toile

I've just finished sewing the dress, it fits the mannequin, but will it fit a real person?!
I need to change a few things and refine the pattern in places like at the side of the bust and work out what fastenings I will use; but overall I'm, not too disappointed with it.

The side tail is a little short, but I think the dress maybe too long for my model.

Lay plan for the dress. 

Cutting on the bias wastes fabric, but it gives the fabric a better drape.

1st dress toile- draping the pattern

I am making a long dress with a slit which is similar to the draping below. I had to adapt it a little to make it wearable I didn't want my model's breast hanging out! So I made the dress a halter neck with extra long straps so they can be used in different ways.

Guidelines for drape.

 

Full length of dress.

With and without cowl back.

1st toile!

I had hoped to upload my capsule collection before uploading my toile but I am re-thinking some of the pieces so here is the tailored garment, I am doing. Its a jacket with a cape sleeve, there will be two layers for the sleeve. The cape sleeve and the the actual sleeve.

I have cut the cape sleeve on the bias and the rest of the garment on the straight grain.

The cape sleeve dart and the shoulder seam are not matching up here.

Diffusion line research

I have been looking online to find as many pictures and information about John Galliano's diffusion line and these are what I have found so far...

London

Anarchy

Rules!

These looks are from John Galliano's menwear diffusion line, which is named, Galliano. I haven't found any price points but I shall keep looking! The menswear line was launched in January and the womenswear equivalent will be released this autumn according to reports.

Draping pt.2

Here are few more of the drape experiments I have done this week...

Circular shapes

Trying a different way of incorporating a tailored garment

Draping with padding removed

Ignore the colours, I know they clash!

Draped pocket?

Snood

Drapes with thick French wool

Draped detailing